I realize it has been a while since my last post, so let me apologize right off the bat for that. Things have been a bit crazy, what with the the new baby, the new job, and the moving to a foreign country.
As soon as I looked out the plane window at Doha, I noticed immediately that it didn't look like anywhere I'd ever been. By this I mean that all first world cities kind of look the same; for example, Dublin has a storied history and deep character that has shaped world events, but when I sat down to dinner in a restaurant it was like being in Houston, just with better beer and horrible food. Doha looks, well, foreign, at least when you are outside. There is a mall across from our villa, called the Villagio, which would be perfectly at home in Houston. Inside, it looks like the the Galleria (for PA family, Ross Park) but with 2/3 people in Arab dress. However, there are also strip malls here that look like something right out of Indiana Jones, but with Lexus dealerships.
Nicole, Henry, and I have had to go have two different medical exams mandated by the state to get a residency permit, one to determine blood type and one more comprehensive with an HIV and Hepatitis test, chest X-ray, and some other things. Each experience illustrated something about living here that I find really interesting.
The first place we went was this little dingy clinic, which had a line of maybe 40 guys waiting to get blood types done. They were workmen, all dark brown (I am assuming Indian or Pakistani. definitely non-Arab) and all really wiry, like bantamweight (115 lb) prizefighters. As soon as I saw this, I thought that we were skunked because there was no way I was having Henry stand outside in a line for an hour (at minimum). But we didn't have to wait. They took us in a side entrance for families, and it was explained to me that the line was for "Bachelors only." Over the next few days, I'd here this term bachelor used again and again, and it appears to be a inexact translation for some concept that doesn't exist in English. It doesn't mean unmarried man. For example, an unmarried Qataris wouldn't be called bachelors. It appears to refer more to a social standing, or lack thereof. The nearest example I can come to it in the U.S. (if I understand correctly) is the Mexican day-laborers in Houston. They are in the society, they may even have money to spend and are welcome to spend it, but there is a class/race issue that is a wall of some sort from the regular society. Anyway, the clinic took three drops of blood from each of us, determined our blood type, and charged us 45 QR, or $12.40. I'm A+, Nicole is B+, and Henry is O+, which means he is going to get hassled by the Red Cross every 45 days once he is old enough to donate.
The more comprehensive exam also taught me a bit about Qatar. But first, a brief digression: While waiting for the more comprehensive exam, I was sitting next to two Brits also waiting for the exam. They had posh accents, and were wearing nice suits, with watches that cost more than a cheap car. They chatted about business and the like, and in general, were a stereotypical English colonials. Except for one thing: The one gentleman was ethnically Indian. Behold the British Empire! I just thought it was neat.
OK, back to the comprehensive exam. Everyone I traveled with was immediately split into men and women, with Nicole carrying Henry. (This got her to the front of EVERY line, so she was done in a flash.) We (the men) were brought into a room with maybe 25 rows of chairs set up facing the front of the room, each row six chairs across. When I entered the room, I sat in a available chair near the back, although as we were all European in my group and had a Qatari minder with us, we got to jump up a few rows. (Subsequently, the minder was able to let us skip ~2/3 of each line.) Every few minutes, we stood up and sat in the row of chairs in front of the row we were in. Eventually, we got to the front of the seating area, and were assigned a line to stand in to pass over paper work to a bored Qatari clerk who gave us a paper that would let us start the exam. This was all presided over by a short mustached Qatari gent. If anyone tried to skip ahead before he was told he could, or even move diagonally when it was time to move forward from one row to another, he was simply ejected with a wave of a hand from this fellow from the seating area. The place was loaded to the gills with workmen and restaurant staff, notable by their wearing (for example) maroon tuxedos.
The next step was getting blood drawn. The device for doing this looked like a ha-penny nail. As soon as walked in, I asked the phlebotomist if it was clean, and he showed me that they were using disposable needles, then he chuckled at me, and said "Were do think you are?" I though I was in a free clinic in the third world, but I kept my mouth shut. (One of my father's many teachings can be most accurately distilled to "No one ever went to jail for not saying something stupid.")
Then we had chest X-Rays, and you had to take your shirt off. A bone-cancer researcher from Cornell, who was also getting the exam, tried to argue with the staff for several minutes about whether this was necessary if your shirt front had no metal or other X-Ray active materials. As the staff had enough English to say "Stand here," "Grip this," and "No Shirt," he failed. Then we had some basic biometrics (hear rate, blood pressure, etc.) including a height and weight done with your shoes on. If I had known this, I'd have worn HUGE boots, as I've always wanted to be 6'2".
Finally, I got to leave. Total time, including the huge acceleration of skipping most of each line, 2.5 hours. No one here is in a hurry.
One last detail: There were no bathrooms at the clinic, but there was a set of water taps mounted on the wall with a single aluminum cup for sharing. Crazy, eh?
More posting + pictures to follow later. Now that we are a bit more settled in, I'd like to post one goofy fact/observation per day.